Question 1

Choosing Your System

Accepted Answer

Most producers come to us with the same pain I had six, seven years ago: sick of going down to the pump house in the middle of the night just to check on things. This guide walks through how to pick the right setup — Sensor Hub, Gateway, nodes, and sensors — for your size of operation, and how to start small and add on later. Start at the Pump House: The Sensor Hub# Almost everyone starts with the Sensor Hub. It's our all-in-one, cellular-connected unit — vacuum, temperature, and tank level in one box for your pump house. I basically wanted monitoring on the most critical point, the pump house, and that's exactly what we built the Sensor Hub for. It's been our flagship for about six years, and it fits producers anywhere from a couple hundred taps to several thousand. It watches the things that actually matter: vacuum at the releaser, tank level, and temperature, recording every 5 minutes so you can see it from any phone or PC. What most producers really want is to sit at home, wake up in the middle of the night, look at it at work and know: is the tank three-quarters full? Did the pump shut off? Did I lose vacuum? That's the hub's job. No power and no Wi-Fi at your sugar bush? That's exactly what the cellular hub is for. It runs on its internal battery, and you've got a few charging options — see Power & Battery. You can start with just the hub and add sensor nodes — end-of-line vacuum, a water meter, extra tanks — that first year or in future years. Hub or Gateway?# Think of it as the way they talk to nodes is different. A node talking to a gateway can talk louder and talk slower — so the range is a lot more, up to about a mile through the bush, and it's more scalable and easier to set up, especially for larger producers. Each node talks straight to the gateway, and the first year of cellular is included. The trade-offs — and this is why we started with the hub — the hub is a lower data rate, which means a lower subscription. It's like having a phone in the woods instead of having a computer in the woods. If you don't have any power out there, the hub definitely works well. The gateway does have a solar panel and battery option, but it's a thousand dollars additional — so it's harder to justify the gateway for smaller operations if you don't have power at the pump house. One other difference: the gateway doesn't have sensors on it. The sensing comes from the nodes. The hub is the all-in-one unit with the sensors built in. For a larger or multi-property operation — growing toward several thousand and up to ~10,000 taps — the gateway is the right backbone instead. Even then, the smart move is to start with a gateway and a few nodes to confirm range across your terrain before committing to the full build. Sensor Nodes and Sensors# Ports and the Universal Node# Nodes come in 1-, 2-, 3-, or 4-port versions, and one physical node can monitor multiple mainlines. Most typical is a 2- or 3-port node — say six 3-port nodes to pick up 18 mainlines. You don't have to buy them all at once; add nodes as you expand. We've moved to the Universal Sensor Node and no longer stock the old version-1 single-vacuum-port style. Same functionality — we just moved the vacuum sensor to the outside to make it more universal. The universal node also has larger solar panels and can take multiple sensors: plug in whatever sensor you need, up to 3 per node, and in the web app you can turn the visibility of any unused ports on or off. What sensors can a node take?# A universal node accepts up to three sensors, in any mix: Vacuum sensor (digital) — end-of-line or at a releaser Submersible tank-level sensor — any sap tank up to ~10' tall (IBC totes, stainless tanks, sap silos, bulk tanks) Ultrasonic tank-level sensor — non-contact alternative Pressure sensor (1/4" NPT) — pairs with a vacuum sensor to measure level on a tank under vacuum (we read the vacuum as reference, do the math, and show you % full) Water meter — via the node's pulse-counting input, for gallons/hour and season totals Sizing Your System Before You Buy# For gateway operations I'll usually put together two quotes so you can phase it in: Starter/Test Kit — the gateway plus a handful of universal nodes and vacuum sensors (e.g. 5 nodes + 5 vacuum sensors). Gets you running so you can confirm range and connectivity before committing. Full System — the gateway plus enough nodes and vacuum sensors to cover end-of-line vacuum on all mainlines, plus vacuum and tank visibility at each pump house. To size it before you buy, use our Coverage Planner (best on a PC) — I can pre-load your property and build a few alternative gateway placements to compare. We can also loan you a Field Tester to walk the property and actually map signal strength via GPS.FAQsDo I actually need nodes, or is the Hub enough?I'd say about half of the guys your size — a couple hundred taps up to 2,000 even — just have the hub in their pump house monitoring that critical thing. Other guys will add nodes, either that first year or in future years. And some guys just say, my desperate need is the pump house, I'm just going to keep using the hub forever. If you've got vacuum gauges where your main lines split and you can walk the woods quickly, you may not need nodes at all.I already have Wi-Fi at my pump house — is there a Wi-Fi version?Yes, we also make a Wi-Fi hub — but there's no sense adding Wi-Fi just for monitoring; about 95% of customers run cellular because that's the more common scenario.Can I get one node that does tank level plus multiple vacuum ports?Not currently — the hardware can, but we avoid one-off variations. Closest is the node with one vacuum sensor plus one vacuum port, typically used at a second collection tank to watch a releaser's vacuum and that tank's level.If I buy a Hub now, can I add nodes to it later? What's the long-term plan for the Hub?I'll be completely transparent with you. The hub accepts nodes today, and any hub you have out there — we'll still sell nodes compatible with it for several years. But over this off-season and early next season, we're going to keep offering the hub but really position it for a single pump house, and anybody who wants nodes will migrate to the gateway. Just from a simplicity-of-the-platform standpoint, the gateway is a more modern way to do that — more range, more scalable, easier to set up. It's hard to put a time frame on it, but for the next two to three years we're going to offer two types of nodes: one that talks to hubs and gateways, and the new version of the node that will only talk to gateways. Eventually we'll retire the original version-one node. The likely gen-two version of the hub — probably next summer's development, not this year — is to make it universal, kind of like our universal node: plug in one, two, or three sensors, but without the ability to talk to nodes.

Question 2

Power & Battery Guide

Accepted Answer

Keeping a SapSpy hub or node powered through the season comes down to three things: picking the right power mode, picking a charging setup that fits how often you're at the pump house anyway, and knowing what to check on the rare day something won't charge. This guide walks through all of it, producer to producer. Power Modes and Battery Life# The mode you run is the biggest factor in how long a charge lasts. A sensor hub has several modes of operation: Always On — take readings and publish every 5 minutes Normal Sleep — take readings every 5 minutes, publish every 20 minutes Cold Weather Deep Sleep — take readings every 20 minutes, publish every 2 hours Off Season — take readings every hour, publish every 2 hours Burst Mode — take readings and publish every 1 minute The most common settings are Always On and Normal Sleep. Always On is like your cell phone when you're always talking on it. The hub is always connected, you can take readings on demand, and it sends the most frequent updates. In Always On, the battery lasts about seven days. Normal Sleep is the next most common. The device is asleep most of the time, but it wakes up briefly every five minutes to take readings. Every 20 minutes it wakes up, takes readings, turns on cellular, publishes all the data out, and falls back asleep. So the app refreshes every 20 minutes, but you still get a data point every 5 minutes. In this mode a device lasts two to four weeks. Worth knowing: the main power draw is the cellular connection itself, so sleeping modes save battery mostly by cutting how often the device transmits. You can change the mode on the sensor hub's settings page. One thing to understand: when you switch from a sleeping mode to Always On, the device won't recognize it's in a new mode until its next awake/publish cycle. Ways to Power Your Hub# Three options: USB charging. We provide a USB cable — five, six foot long. One side screws into the bottom of the hub so it stays waterproof; the other side is just a standard USB plug, so it runs off any USB source — including a power-tool battery with a USB adapter. Most guys start here and just top it up every few days. 12-volt alligator clips. Instead of (or in addition to) the USB cable, hook the hub to any deep-cycle or 12-volt battery. That'll definitely last forever. Solar panel. A small panel, about four by six inches. It's $100 for the solar panel setup. What most guys do is start without the solar and use the USB adapter. If the hassle factor of charging a few times a season doesn't bother them, they keep doing that. A few guys in year two or three say "it's just another thing I have to worry about" and grab the solar panel then. You can always add it later. Keeping an Eye on the Battery# You don't have to babysit it. We put up a little warning banner in the app once the battery's depleted below about 25% and discharging. And you can set up a text alert for low battery. So you get a bit of awareness to say, yep, that thing's not keeping up — I better bring a USB adapter out there next time. When It Won't Charge: Quick Checks# If a hub or node won't charge, it's almost always one of these, in order: Make sure the cable is fully plugged into the hub — including screwed in. People think it's plugged in; once you screw it in it makes full connection. Swap in a known-good USB wall adapter and cable from another hub. Fastest way to isolate a bad adapter, bad cable, or dead outlet. (USB wall adapters are notorious for going bad over time.) Check the outlet actually has power. Remove the cover and confirm the control board is fully seated — they sometimes work loose. There's an amber light inside (red on a node board) that comes on when charging, so you get instant feedback on which of the above it is. One specific case: if the app says "battery: disconnected" (charge N/A), that's almost always the on/off button in the OFF position — push it in and it starts charging.FAQsCan I charge it off a DeWalt (power tool) battery?Yeah, you can. The included USB cable plugs right into a tool battery with a USB adapter. One honest heads-up though — it's not a SapSpy thing, it's the tool-battery adapter thing: as soon as the hub's internal battery is fully charged, it stops drawing current, and the USB adapter basically goes to sleep and stops putting out power. It doesn't start charging again until you unplug the tool battery and plug it back in. But you're typically at the pump house every couple days anyway to empty the tank. So what most guys do is leave the hub in always-on mode, and the day the battery's getting lower — while you're pumping sap out or checking leaks — you just plug in the tool battery and charge it fully, then unplug it again. Keep a spare battery in the truck and it's a non-issue.Would a solar panel even get enough sun in the woods?Most times, during sugaring season there's no leaves. So unless your pump house is in a pine area of the woods, typically speaking you get enough sun. If you're on the edge of a field, you'll be fine.My hub's battery keeps draining faster than solar can keep up — how do I conserve power?Options when a hub's battery is trending down: Top it off with a USB battery bank and the original cable. Put it in Normal Sleep — a lot less power, and it'll likely save itself after a day of sun. It still takes readings every 5 minutes, just updates the app every 20 instead of continuously, which is plenty for most. Last resort, swap batteries with another hub. My usual recommendation is #2 — drop it into sleep until it catches some sun.My node shows 0% battery but is still sending data — do I need a new battery?If it's still sending temperature and vacuum, the electronics are fine — almost certainly not a board failure. A 0% reading while still reporting is usually one of three things: Deeply drained but being supported by solar (when there's light). Early season or cold, solar won't recover a deeply discharged battery well — it may report intermittently but won't hold charge until it warms up. Battery at end of life — after a few seasons an 18650 can lose capacity and drop to 0% under load. The state-of-charge sensing isn't reading right — the battery may be fine but it just reads 0% all the time. To tell them apart: fully charge it, reinstall it, and watch it for a day or two. If it drops to 0% fast and stops overnight, it's the battery. If it reads 0% but keeps working reliably, it's just the sensing circuit — run it for the season. (A brand-new node showing "0% / N/A" with no data at all is different — that usually means it never joined the network, not a dead battery.)A device died in the woods and won't come back — how do I revive it?Once fully depleted below 5%, it hibernates indefinitely — it stays offline until it has power again, and the solar panel alone often won't rescue it (solar only charges once temps are consistently above freezing). Fastest fixes: Bring it inside, remove the cover, and plug a micro-USB straight into the board connector. The red charge light comes on; when it turns off (several hours) it's full — reinstall it and it powers itself back on. In the field, plug a USB battery bank into it with the original cable to top it up without hauling it out. If it's a solar unit and you just need to reboot it, turn it off and unplug the solar panel for 10–20 seconds — otherwise the panel keeps feeding it and it won't fully power-cycle. My battery is worn out — what battery does it take, and can I swap it myself?Use a protected, button-top 18650 Li-ion cell — we recommend the Samsung 35E 18650 3500mAh 8A Protected Button Top (SriKo Batteries carries it). Protected plus button-top matters for fit and safe operation; it's a tight fit, but it's the highest-quality cell we've found to avoid flaky-battery problems. You can swap it in the field: Node: pop the small plastic clip with a flat-head screwdriver and swap the cell. Hub: not built for easy swaps, but doable — four Phillips screws on the cover, two small screws on the battery cover, then gently unplug the old battery from the board and plug in the new one. I've tried everything and it still won't charge — can you fix it?If it's been through the cable/adapter/outlet/board checks and still won't charge, it's a hardware issue and we recondition it: ship the unit back, I handle repair and inspection here in Wisconsin, and send it back — or do a refund on a bad unit if you'd rather, whichever sets you up best for next season. (No rush on off-season repairs — early off-season is ideal.)

Question 3

Tank Level Sensor Guide

Accepted Answer

Nobody wants to drive down to the pump house in the middle of the night just to look in a tank. The tank level sensor tells the Sap Spy app how full your tank is, so you can check your phone from the house and know whether you actually need to go. This guide covers how the sensor works, how to install and calibrate it, and how to sort out the common hiccups. How the Sensor Works# We started with ultrasonic five, six years ago — we still offer it if you really want it, but it's kind of finicky. The setup has to be perfectly level, and splashes off a mechanical releaser can disturb it here and there. So three, four years ago we migrated to what I call the submersible. It's a pressure sensor that just sits at the bottom of the tank — a little stainless steel body that sinks right down. The more liquid in the tank, the more pressure it sees — like water-column pressure. The sensor converts that pressure into inches of liquid, you tell the app how tall your tank is, and Sap Spy converts that to percent full. That eliminates the complexity of setup. Analog vs. Digital: Know Which Sensor You Have# There are two sensor types, and they're not interchangeable: New universal nodes need a digital sensor. The original nodes and sensor hubs use an analog sensor. The connector pinout differs between the two as well, so a salvaged connector wired for one won't work on the other. If you're not sure which you have, or you need a digital submersible for a newer node, reach out and we'll get you the right one. Installing the Sensor# Place the stainless steel sensor at the bottom of the tank. Orientation doesn't matter — it can sit vertically or horizontally. Measure the total internal height of the tank, from the bottom to the overflow point, in inches. You'll enter this in the app. Each tank sensor includes 30 feet of cable — 15' on the sensor plus a 15' extension. Additional extensions are available if you need more reach. Setting Up the Sap Spy App# Enter the tank height in the Sap Spy app, in inches. If the sensor reads a few inches above or below zero when the tank is empty, adjust the Zero Offset until it reads near 0". (More on how offsets work in the FAQs below.) Enter your tank details — select your tank type and total capacity in gallons so Sap Spy can estimate how many gallons are in the tank. To confirm everything's working: on a sensor hub, use Read Tank to see instant values from the app and check they match what you expect. On a node, simply turn the node off and on to force a reading. Cleaning and Care# To clean the sensor, twist off the end cap and gently rinse the inside with water. Use only light pressure with a damp cloth on the internal components. FAQsI plugged a level sensor into my newer node and it locks up / won't read — are the sensors interchangeable?No — and that lock-up is the tell-tale you've got the wrong sensor type on that node. Hook an old analog submersible to a new universal node and it can freeze up the whole thing — no amount of toggling ports or power-cycling gets it to read. Universal nodes need the digital sensor; the original nodes and sensor hubs use the analog one. Two things to check: On the LED sight-glass/display units, set the menu sensor type to "digital" (type 2), not "submersible." A factory reset fixes it: power OFF, hold the Enter button (far right), power ON while still holding Enter through startup until it shows a level, then release. The pinout differs between analog and digital connectors, so a salvaged connector wired for one won't work on the other. Need a digital submersible? Reach out and we'll get you the right one — and if you want to send the old analog one back, I can do a swap and cover shipping both ways.Why does my ultrasonic tank sensor read wrong (over-full, or full when empty), especially when it's cold?For ultrasonic it's almost always one of four things: Not level — it got bumped or shifted. Disturbances on top — a releaser dumping or splash when pumping; the ultrasonic doesn't bounce properly. Condensation on the underside from temperature and humidity swings — just wipe it off. Snow or ice on top of the tank — even a thin layer keeps it from reading. That's why some folks see "tank full" below freezing that clears once it warms up. To confirm the sensor itself is good: clean the underside, point it at a flat, hard object, use Read Tank under device settings, and check the reading roughly matches the distance. Then re-mount it level. Honestly, these four issues are exactly why we migrated to the submersible — easier to set up and far more robust. If you're fighting the ultrasonic, reach out and I'll take care of you on a swap.Can the submersible sensor freeze, and what happens if it does?We haven't had many problems with the submersible — a few here and there. In general freezing isn't a problem; the handful we've had to swap froze into a solid brick, and that's when a submersible can actually fail. A freeze-up can also throw readings off temporarily — a few bogus readings, or a level that briefly calculates below 0", can happen during a freeze. If the sensor was accurate all season and just started acting up, check whether it lines up with a freeze. If one froze solid and failed, reach out and we'll get you a replacement.My submersible reads stuck — always full, always empty, or it won't drop below a certain percent. How do I fix it?Before waiting on a replacement, two quick checks fix this most of the time: Clean the sensor end. That bottom barrel piece with the vent hole unscrews — it doesn't look like it, but it does. Take it off and lightly clean the pressure sensor inside; hot water works. Push evenly and lightly on the diaphragm with your finger and the reading should move. If it won't budge below its stuck value, that points to the sensor itself. A little cleaning late in the season often gets it accurate again. Check the connector for a loose wire. We've had a few with a loose termination — take the connector apart and confirm everything's tight. (There's a short walkthrough video for this if you need it.) Also confirm the sensor is plugged into the SNS port — and on sight-glass units, that the LED strip is in the LED port. Still stuck after all that? I'll send a prepaid label, you ship it back, and I'll get a working unit to you.My tank reads a few inches off even though it's mounted right — how do I calibrate it?Use the sensor offset in the menu — it's on the same settings page where you enter your tank height/dimensions and sensor type. The offset is additive: if the sensor reads 2" with no liquid in the tank, set the offset to -2. A sensor sitting below the tank bottom gets a negative offset; above it, positive — so a sensor reading 8" high gets a -8 and then reads correctly. One limit: the max offset is 10". More than that and offset alone won't fully calibrate it — you can work around it by adjusting the entered tank height, but if it's off by that much, let me know and we'll look at swapping the sensor.My tank sensor cable got damaged / I need a longer one — can I extend or repair it?Yes — we sell a 15' extension cable for the submersible transducer (it works for the relay too). If the cable or connector got damaged — one customer's got crushed when snow slid off the roof onto it, so try not to leave it where that can happen — you can usually salvage and re-terminate the connector. For the original analog sensor the pinout is: Pin 1 red, Pin 2 blank (a shield wire can go here on some), Pin 3 green, Pin 4 yellow. The newer digital sensor uses a different pinout, so confirm which style you have before re-wiring. Beyond repair? We'll get a replacement out to you.

Question 4

Installation & Mounting

Accepted Answer

Installing a SapSpy hub comes down to two things: picking a spot for it and running a vacuum line back to your releaser. Neither is complicated — here's how the install goes. Where to Mount the Hub# The hub is waterproof, so it doesn't have to live inside the pump house. I'd say half of them, if not more, are completely in the open — mine's completely in the open. Even the USB cable screws into the bottom, so it stays waterproof when it's plugged in. Hooking Up Vacuum Monitoring# The hub has a 5/16" barbed fitting on the bottom. Just run 5/16 line from the hub back to your mechanical releaser. We include a 5/16-to-quarter-inch NPT adapter already, and most releasers have that fitting there — basically it goes right where your existing vacuum gauge is.FAQsWhat if my releaser doesn't have a spare fitting for the vacuum line?You either replace an existing fitting or drill and tap a new one. The included 5/16-to-1/4" NPT adapter matches the port most releasers already have — the same spot your existing vacuum gauge sits.Can I leave the hub outside all year?We recommend taking it in during the off-season rather than leaving it out there all year long — we've had lightning strikes, rodents, and other crazy things out there.

Question 5

App & Alerts Guide

Accepted Answer

Everything here is about watching your operation from your phone — how the app works, how to get it on your home screen, how to share it with family and helpers, and how the text alerts behave so you know when you actually need to head to the pump house. A Web App, Built to Feel Like an App# There's no app to download from an app store — it's a web app you navigate to, and we're always going to offer it that way. But when we built it, we built it to behave like an app on your phone. I know 90% of our customers are looking at the data on their phone, so it's built for that purpose. It's just not something you install from an app store. Save it to your home screen# To make it feel like a real app, save it to your home screen as an icon — then it opens like an app. There's a quick video available showing how. If you get stuck, tell me your phone and browser and I'll walk you through the exact settings. Staying logged in# You should only have to log in once — after that it remembers you (we use a cookie). Two things have to be true: you're browsing in normal mode (not private/incognito), and cookies are enabled. If it keeps making you log in over and over, see the FAQs at the bottom. Sharing Access with Family and Helpers# Any number of users can be on the account — anyone with the username and password can log in at the same time, on as many phones as you like. Two ways to share: Share your username and password — just make your password something generic you're comfortable sharing. Anybody with it can access the account. View-only link — say a guy has a neighbor helping, or in my case my parents are almost 80 years old: I want them to see it, but I don't want them jerking with any settings. You share the view-only link and they don't need to create an account — they just click it and it logs them in as you, in view-only mode. You stay the only one who can change anything. Text Alerts# Text alerts can be enabled or disabled for any of the sensors we interface, including the most common: Low Vacuum Full Tank Empty Tank Temperature (single or continuous) Low Battery How alerts behave# Once a sensor reads a value above or below the alert condition, a single initial text alert is sent. The sensor must read back into a normal range to "re-arm" before it will send another text alert the next time it crosses the threshold. So you get one clear heads-up, not a phone that won't stop buzzing. Who gets the texts# You can configure up to 3 phone numbers to receive text alerts. This is set up by account, not by device, and the same text goes to all three numbers — so you, your helper, and one more can all get the "tank's getting full" or "we lost vacuum" text at the same time. FAQsWhy does it make me log in every 20 minutes?That's almost always a private-browsing or cookie setting. Make sure you're in normal mode (not private/incognito) and that cookies are enabled — once those are right, you log in once and it remembers you. Tell me your phone and browser and I'll walk you through the exact settings.I have more than one hub — can I manage them from one account?Yes. Claim them all to the same account and manage them together.My hub keeps texting me the temperature is 0.0°F (below setpoint) even though it isn't that cold — why?That bogus 0.0°F is almost always the first reading right after the device powers up or reconnects — it hasn't waited long enough for temperature data. On marginal Wi-Fi a hub will reboot when it drops the connection, then report 0.0°F and 0% signal on that first reading. A flaky USB adapter causes the same reboots, so swapping the adapter is a good test. We pushed a software update so the device now tries up to 5 times to get a good (non-0.0) reading before reporting, and the false alerts stopped. In the meantime, a node always reads temperature correctly, so you can use a node for temperature. Still seeing it? I can add backend logic to only alert on consecutive 0.0 readings.

Question 6

Subscription, Billing & Service

Accepted Answer

Here's the straight story on what the service costs, how billing works, and what we do when something needs attention. The short version: your first year is included, it's one flat price after that, and we're easy to deal with on payment. What the Service Costs# The cellular service is included in the first year — it's part of the purchase. After that it's $75 per year per hub, which most guys tell me is pretty reasonable. If your system runs on a gateway instead of a hub, the gateway has its own service subscription of $250 per season per gateway — and just like the hubs, your first season is included. Either way, our cellular is flat and all-inclusive: one seasonal price per hub ($75) or per gateway ($250), with no per-node or per-device fees. Adding nodes later doesn't add a dime to the service bill. When and How You're Billed# Around December / early January, heading into the next season, we send out the service invoices for the new year. We email everybody, and there's also a link to your invoice right in the web app that stays there until it's paid. If you buy mid-year, you won't see your first invoice until the December after your included year is up. Any device we ship has its subscription marked paid for the upcoming season and stays active through that season — so you wouldn't owe the $75 service until the season after your included one. Out of the Box: Already Activated# They come activated already, with cellular live the moment they leave here. As soon as it shows up at your door, you can turn it on, activate it, claim it, and go play with it — even in the summer before the season starts. Set it up at home to get familiar with it, or take it straight out to the bush to confirm connectivity right away. Between Seasons# The device stays active all year, not just sugaring season — it keeps functioning in the off-season. To stretch the battery during long freezes or the off-season, you can drop it into a sleep mode under device settings; it'll last a couple weeks on "Normal Sleep." If a device has been sitting unused for a while, we re-activate the seasonal service on our end — the SIM re-activates, and it typically reconnects within 10–20 minutes once powered on. Just reach out when you're ready for the season. And your history isn't lost between seasons: we keep full data retention, data exports are available on request, and we're rolling out exports directly in the app. How to Pay# Either way works: Mailed check (preferred). Make it out to Maple IoT Solutions LLC and mail it to N8408 Muirfield Way, Menasha, WI 54952. We ship as soon as the check clears. Credit card. We'll send you a secure pay link. Need a little time? We're flexible on terms — some orders run Net 7 or Net 30, and for larger balances I can set up a few months of payments. Just ask which is easier for you. Warranty, Repairs & Software Updates# Every hub and node is covered by a 1-year warranty. After that first year, any repair — up to and including a full replacement — is covered by a single low, fixed per-device cost (per hub or per node), so you're never guessing what a fix will run. Most issues we can diagnose over email or phone first — often it's a settings switch, a wiring or sensor issue, or the unit just needs a charge. If a unit truly needs to come in, we recondition it here in Wisconsin and send it back, or ship you a replacement. As for software: you don't have to do anything. Updates are pushed over the air automatically — when a device connects, it applies our latest software on its own, and we roll fixes out to the whole fleet. So when we identify and fix something in software, your devices pick it up without being sent in. For example, we've resolved bugs like a relay not switching with a fleet-wide update rather than shipping anything back.FAQsIf I buy now, is my subscription good for next season, and when am I billed?Yes. Any device we ship from here forward has its subscription marked paid for the upcoming season, and it ships with cellular already active — so you can set it up at home to play with it or put it in the bush to confirm connectivity right away. It stays active through that season, and your first $75 service invoice won't come until the December / early January after your included season.What happens if I don't pay my yearly service invoice?The invoice goes out in December / early January by email, and the link to it sits right in the web app until it's paid. After that there's a grace period where everything keeps running as normal. If the invoice still hasn't been paid past that window, the device's cellular service is suspended until it's caught up — nothing is lost, and as soon as you pay we reactivate the service and it reconnects within 10–20 minutes. If you need more time, just reach out — we're flexible.My older hub won't connect — does the cell carrier in my area matter?It can. Our original devices only support AT&T or T-Mobile — they can't connect to Verizon towers. If your bush is in a Verizon-only area, an older unit won't test well there, and you'd want newer hardware for an adequate test. Newer hardware handles more carriers.I'm in Canada — what currency are your prices in, and how do shipping and cellular work?Our quotes are in US dollars (that's on us if it isn't clearly called out). At checkout it converts to Canadian dollars and takes a credit card. For Canadian orders we ship through our Ontario distribution partner, who completes final delivery to you, and the cellular monitoring works the same as in the States. Tell us roughly where you are and what your setup looks like, and we'll get you a quote and coordinate delivery.

Question 7

Pricing & Ordering

Accepted Answer

Here's the straight story on what the Sensor Hub costs, how our sales work, and the easiest ways to order. No games on pricing — I'd rather you buy when the timing works for you than feel cornered into buying today. What the Sensor Hub Costs# There are two variants of the Sensor Hub: The full unit — vacuum, tank level, and temperature. The same hub without the tank level sensor. The tank level sensor is $240 of the difference between them. At the spring-sale price, the hub without the tank sensor runs around $805, and the full unit with the tank sensor is $1,045 — that's $100 off the regular price. When We Run Sales (and Whether to Wait)# Full transparency on sale pricing: the spring sale is $100 off, and I'll typically honor it a bit past the posted end if you're on the fence — just ask. In the fall we've always done $80 off, the last three years running, and I'd expect the same. Mostly we're trying to front-load sales into summer and fall rather than get bombarded in winter. So it's not like you're losing out on the full $100 if you can't swing it right now — there'll be another sale, just a little smaller. Buy when the funds work for you. How to Order# Either right through the website or over the phone — most of it goes right through the website, but I'm happy either way. If you want, give me your email and I'll send over a quote so it's in our system — basically a direct link, a single button click to purchase, with any sale pricing locked in.FAQsThe website showed a much lower price, or I couldn't find the version with the tank sensor. What gives?That's usually a Shopify inventory quirk — if a variant is out of inventory, Shopify just takes it down, so you only see the without-tank-sensor variant and its lower price. If something looks off or missing on the store, just call or email and I'll check it — usually it's a one-minute inventory update on my end.

Question 8

Range & Coverage Guide

Accepted Answer

Range is the number-one question I get, and the honest answer is "it depends on your woods." This guide walks through what actually drives coverage — hub vs. gateway, terrain, node count, repeaters, antennas — and how we confirm it on your property before you spend a dime. Hub or gateway: what the range really is# Everything runs on the unlicensed ~915 MHz LoRa band, in one of two flavors: point-to-point (a Sensor Hub) or LoRaWAN (a gateway). Point-to-point (hub): typically 1/4 up to 1/2 mile straight through the bush, terrain-dependent. LoRaWAN (gateway): 1/2 mile, up to 1 mile through the bush — generally about 2 to 2.5x what a hub reaches. Raw range isn't the whole story, though. The gateway's real advantage is that every node talks directly to it — there's no deciding which nodes repeat for which — so big systems stay easy and consistent as you grow. My rule of thumb on which to choose: 2,000 taps and under, go with a hub; more than 4,000, go with a gateway. In between, both work, and it comes down to specifics like whether you have power on the property. Terrain is the whole game# Range depends on terrain, and barriers are the main thing we plan around. Here's how the common ones play out: A ridge between parcels blocks a single point — put a gateway on each side. One 5-releaser bush needed three: one per parcel across the ridge, plus one at the home sugarhouse. A road splitting the bush is a common case for a second gateway — you get full coverage plus redundancy. A corner in an RF shadow — we've run a Sensor Hub to service a remote corner while the gateway serves the rest of the property. A far pump house with no power — a hub is the answer there too: put a hub at the pump house with a small solar panel, and a nearby node that can't reach the gateway routes through it. As soon as you're out of range, you stand up another gateway and keep going — that's what makes big systems easy. And for the cleanest shot across the home property, mount the gateway high: the gable end of a building, and the higher the better. Everything we read off a map is a starting point — we always confirm on the ground with a node. More on that at the end of this guide. How many nodes you'll need# Rule of thumb is 2 mainlines per node, but your layout drives it both ways. Lines spaced far apart may need one node per line; lines close together (100-150') let a 3-port node cover 3 mainlines and cut your count. Most installs average about 2 mainlines per node with a mix of 1s, 2s, and 3s. A pump house also typically gets one node of its own, covering vacuum, tank level, and temperature. Hooking neighboring mainlines to one node# You don't run wire to the neighboring mainlines — you run 5/16" tubing back to the node like any other lateral, just with no taps: a dedicated saddle in the mainline, an end-of-line hook and T, into the vacuum sensor. If lines are more than ~150' apart, use a dedicated node per mainline end. We've got thousands of these nodes in the field, and about 75% monitor multiple mainlines with no concerns. The only downside — and I'll be straight with you — is that it's one more line a squirrel could chew. Repeaters on a hub system# On a hub system, if a far node can't reach the hub, you turn a node in between into a repeater: remove the cover, flip DIP switch #1 on, power it off and back on, and replace the cover. That node keeps doing its regular job — it works as both an end-of-line sensor and a repeater. One thing to know going in: hops are limited. Point-to-point is great, but it has limits beyond 1-2 hops. To reach large operations reliably, that's where the gateway (LoRaWAN) comes in — nodes talk straight to it, no hopping. Repeaters also use more battery than a regular node — there's a full answer on that in the FAQs below. Antennas and mounting# A few tips that make a real difference: Mounting and line-of-sight. Mount a node on the side of the tree facing the hub or next node — higher up helps. Gateway height. Mount a gateway as high as you can; the gable end is ideal. It ships with all the mounting hardware. Add-on antenna. For a hub, we can run an add-on antenna mounted very high to reach a distant node. If you're seeing dropouts or weirdly low signal from a node that shouldn't have a range problem, the antenna itself may be the fault — see the FAQs below for how to spot that and what the replacement part is. Planning your coverage before you buy# The best way to plan is to send me a map of your woods. What works well is marking up an onX map — draw your mainlines with a single waypoint at the end of each — and I'll dial in node count and placements and recommend gateway locations. Typically we set the gateway(s) up first, then walk or drive around with a node to confirm coverage and adjust. A quote from a map really represents the worst case. Two tools help before you buy: Coverage Planner — drop a waypoint where a gateway would go and see the expected range across your property (works best on a PC). You can view real sugarbush examples, or upload a KML of your own operation to request a quote. Field Tester loaner — no cost. It's a site-survey node with GPS that maps signal strength as you walk the property, confirming your coverage and refining the planner at the same time. FAQsCan I use repeaters on a gateway system?No — on a gateway, nodes talk straight home, so you can't use repeaters the way you can on a hub. But the gateway's extra range usually means you don't need them.Why does a repeater node use more battery than the others?The repeater stays awake longer waiting for everyone to talk, so the extra draw scales with the number of nodes behind it. Under ~10 nodes it should run all season on the battery plus solar, given a good battery and some intermittent sun on the south side of the tree. (Universal nodes shipped with a bigger battery and a 2x larger panel to help with exactly this.)What do I do if a node goes "orphaned"?If a node drifts out of sync so the hub can't hear it, put the hub in burst mode. That keeps the repeater awake and listening, so it rescues the orphan and re-syncs the system.A node is close to the hub but the signal is low or keeps dropping — what's wrong?If a node sits close to the hub or repeater but signal is very low, or you see lots of variability and intermittent drops, that usually points to a flaky, poorly connected, or damaged antenna rather than range — swapping the antenna often fixes it. You can check hops and signal strength under device settings.What's the replacement antenna, and where do I get one?The node antenna is a TE/Linx ANT-916-CW-HW — DigiKey or any supplier carries it, and our distributors keep a few on hand.

Question 9

Getting Started with SapSpy

Accepted Answer

New SapSpy gear in hand (or on the way)? Here's the whole path from opening an account to having every sensor talking — in the order I'd do it myself, with the warm-kitchen steps done before anything goes out to the woods. Create Your Account# Go to sapspyapp.com and create your account — you'll get a verification email to confirm. If that email gives you trouble, tell me and I'll create the account on my side and send you your login (you can change the password anytime under the upper-right menu, Change Password). You don't need the hardware in hand to do this. In fact, create the account first — that way we can get devices claimed and shipped, and when your equipment arrives you just claim it by scanning the QR codes. Once you're logged in, click into your site to expand the sensors, and rename your vacuum ports and mainlines so they make sense to you. Power On and Claim Your Devices# Good news — in most cases your hub ships already activated, so it's turn it on, let it find signal, and go. After you power it on, give it 10–20 minutes to connect (it's often faster). The first time it comes online it also pulls down our latest software update automatically — nothing for you to do there. To see your readings, log in at sapspyapp.com and click into your site to expand the sensors. If the hub doesn't come online, send me the serial number printed on the device and I'll double-check activation from my side — once it's activated, it connects within 10–20 minutes. Bench-Test Before You Head to the Woods# Do your first setup indoors somewhere warm — the house or the sugarhouse — before anything goes on a tree. Nodes and hubs arrive charged, so you can bench-test right out of the box. Here's the order: Claim all the devices and get them communicating locally, right next to the hub, so you know everything talks. Figure out where each node goes, one at a time: name each mainline in the app and write that same name on the device with a Sharpie. Repeat for every node and sensor. Then out in the woods it's just strap the node to the tree (south side) and connect the mainline — no claiming and naming out in the cold. Device IDs, QR Codes, and DIP Switches# Your device ID / serial number is printed right on the device, along with a QR code you scan in the app to claim it. Inside each node are small DIP switches (it takes a Phillips-head screwdriver to open the case). For a node talking to a hub, all switches are off/down. Different switch settings tell the node to talk to a gateway instead — more on that below. Setting Up a Gateway# The gateway is powered over Ethernet, so here's the number-one check: plug the Ethernet cable into the "POE" side of the Power-over-Ethernet injector, not the LAN side — that's the most common mix-up. No lights on the bottom of the unit means it isn't getting power, so recheck the injector. Once it's powered and finds signal, it comes online ready to talk to nodes. A gateway can uplink over cellular, Wi-Fi, or Ethernet — use Wi-Fi or wired if you have it there, otherwise it runs on cell just like the hubs. One more step for the nodes: existing nodes need a quick software update to talk to a gateway, and you flip DIP switch 6 to on inside each node. We include a "pocket flasher" so you can do the update yourself, and there's a video walkthrough to follow along with.FAQsI'm getting "this device has already been claimed" — what do I do?That means the device is still claimed to another account — usually the previous owner. A device lives on only one account at a time, so they need to unclaim it (Device Settings, Unclaim Device) before you can claim it. If you can't reach them, send me the device number and I'll free it up or transfer ownership from my side so you can get connected — it should show online right away.How do I transfer a whole system to a new owner? The current owner unclaims the hub — log in at SapSpyApp.com, select the hub, then Device Settings, Unclaim Device. The new owner creates an account at SapSpyApp.com and uses Claim Device to claim the hub. Subscription — after claiming, they buy the yearly subscription to activate service; billing and access then follow their account. I can also transfer ownership entirely on my end if needed.How do I move a node to a different hub?A node has to be unclaimed from the old hub first, then re-claimed to the new one — use the red trash icon to remove a node from a hub. One catch: the hub you're claiming to must be up and communicating first. Can't see how to do it? Send me the node names or serials and I'll unclaim them so you can re-claim.My node powers up (bright green, then blinks) but won't connect — now what?Check the DIP switches — for a node talking to a hub, all switches should be off/down — and make sure the node is claimed to the right hub.My QR label looks wrong or got damaged — can I still claim the device?No problem — I can print a new QR label, or you can X-out the old one and write the correct ID on it; I'll confirm the true ID from my side.

Question 10

Troubleshooting Guide

Accepted Answer

Every setup goes quiet once in a while — a hub that won't check in, a gateway with no lights, a far node that keeps dropping out. The good news is that almost all of it comes down to a short list of causes, and most of them you can sort out yourself in a few minutes. This guide walks through each piece of the system in turn, and I'll tell you exactly when to stop fiddling and let me look at it from my end. When Your Cellular Sensor Hub Shows Offline# Go to the hub and, before touching anything, look at the button light — is it flashing, breathing, or something else? That first observation tells us a lot, so make a note of it. If the light is off completely, wait at least 30 seconds before you do anything. The hub tries to power-cycle itself when it can't connect, so give it a chance to come back on its own. If it doesn't, power it off — including unplugging the USB — wait 10 to 20 seconds, and turn it back on. See if it connects then. Still nothing? Move it to another location — take it home with you — and see if it connects anywhere else. This is the single most useful test, because it tells us whether we're dealing with a hub problem or a cellular-signal problem at your site. On my end I can see the device's last carrier, tower, and signal strength, so relocating it helps me rule out hardware versus carrier. One more thing to keep in mind: if the battery drops below 5%, the hub hibernates and won't recover until it has power again. If that's your situation, see the Power & Battery guide. When Your Gateway Shows Offline# A few things to check, in order: Lights on the bottom of the unit. No lights means it isn't getting power at all. The Ethernet cable is plugged into the "POE" side of the PoE injector, not the LAN side. This is the common mistake — it's an easy one to make. How long it's been powered and trying to connect. Give it some time before you conclude it's dead. What uplink you have there — cellular only, or Wi-Fi/Ethernet? That changes what we look at next. Once it's powered correctly, the bottom lights blink and the gateway comes online, ready for nodes. One more root cause I've seen in the field: a gateway hitting a SIM data limit. That one you can't fix on site — I resolve it on my end, so just reach out. Nodes That Keep Dropping Out# Usually it's the farthest nodes that give you trouble. Diagnose before you rearrange anything. Sort out what kind of problem it is# Power a node on and watch the LED. Then bring it close to the hub and power-cycle it: If it connects up close, you've got a range, antenna, or repeater issue. If it won't connect even right next to the hub, it's likely battery or hardware. If multiple nodes are down at once, check that the hub itself is online before blaming the nodes. Weak or bouncing links# For links that are weak or keep flapping, I can read hops and signal strength under the device settings. One pattern to know: a node that's physically close to its repeater but showing very low signal usually means a bad antenna. Swap the antenna — or move the node right next to the hub to confirm the diagnosis. Getting a far node back after a hub swap or reboot# Put the hub in burst mode, wait about 10 minutes, then power the node off and back on. That gets the far node reconnected. The long-term fix for a property that's fighting range# If you're constantly battling to keep distant nodes connected, my usual recommendation is upgrading the hub to a gateway. Nodes talk straight to the gateway — no repeater games — and it's much more consistent. Your existing nodes are compatible; they just need a software update you can do yourself. Send me a rough map of your property with the node locations and I'll lay out a path for you.FAQsAll my devices went offline at once — is SapSpy or the network down?It depends whether it's fleet-wide or just you, and I can tell from my back-end by comparing the device count before and after. If our main cellular provider has an outage, it can knock out a big chunk of the fleet at once — those recover on their own, and typically the fleet is back within 1–2 hours once the carrier resolves it. If it's just your device, it's usually the standard offline flow above (or it quietly reconnected on its own already). Outages like this are rare, but they can happen — reach out and I'll confirm which one it is.My hub was online but stopped sending data — can you reboot it remotely?Yes. Sometimes a device stays connected but stops sending data. I can "give it a kick" and reboot it from my side, and it starts sending again. It's rare — only a few cases across the whole fleet — and normally once we kick it, it's good from there. If you notice it happening again, let me know.The app says "offline" but my devices seem fine — what's going on?App-side "offline" is a different animal from a device being offline. It's usually just an expired login — log out and log back in from the three-bar menu and it clears right up.My Gateway says "offline" but data is still coming through — is that a problem?Probably not. Your gateway can be online and working in our back-end — processing node messages — while the separate remote-management portal (WISDM, from the gateway maker) shows it offline. Often that's because firewall rules on your router block traffic to that console. It doesn't really matter as long as the nodes reach the SapSpy backend and forward their data — that's the critical piece. I wouldn't worry about the gateway showing offline as long as sensor data is flowing; we can dig into it at the end of the season.

Question 11

Generator Start/Stop Control

Accepted Answer

At a remote tank or pump station with no grid power, every collection is a trip. One producer described what it took to empty an 800-gallon bulk tank before remote control — driving out and pull-starting a gas pump: "it was an hour, hour and a half every time we wanted to collect." SapSpy can start and stop a generator from your phone over the cellular network, then switch on whatever that generator powers. This guide covers the two generator setups we support, what each one costs you, and the one thing that trips people up. How it works# A SapSpy relay module is a remotely controlled switch. For generator control it's wired so that closing the circuit starts the generator and opening it stops it — there's no timed pulse and no separate stop signal. Hold the circuit closed and the generator runs. That simplicity is possible because both supported setups have a starting system that does the hard part for you: it handles the choke and keeps cranking the starter until the engine catches. One relay controls the generator. A second relay controls whatever the generator is running — a vacuum pump, a well pump, a motor starter. Keeping them on separate relays is deliberate: you start the generator with no load on it, let it come up to speed, and then switch the load in. You have two paths, and you pick one or the other: Option A — a Westinghouse generator that is ST Smart Switch–ready, using a control cable we sell. Option B — a Honda-style generator with an aftermarket two-wire remote start kit from Generator Line, bought direct from them. Both start and stop from the SapSpy app in exactly the same way. The difference is cost, fuel use, noise and whether you need 240V. Option A — Westinghouse plus our control cable# You buy the generator; we sell the cable that connects it to your relay module. Westinghouse Generator ST Switch Control Cable — $40. It's 3 metres (about 10 feet), plugs into the generator's ST switch port, and terminates on the SapSpy relay module. Any ST Smart Switch–ready Westinghouse works. The confirmed models are the WGen5300, WGen7500, WGen9500 and WGen12000 — each of which also comes in a DF (dual fuel) version: WGen5300DF, WGen7500DF, WGen9500DF and WGen12000DF. The DF units run on propane as well as gasoline, which is worth considering for a generator that sits in the woods for weeks between uses. Why pick Westinghouse: it's the more cost-effective option, and it gives you a 240V output — so a 240V well pump or vacuum pump runs directly off it with no step-up transformer. The tradeoff: it's a traditional generator. It runs at full speed the whole time it's on, so it burns more fuel and is louder than an inverter unit. A note on 240V and 120V together# When a Westinghouse is switched to its 240V selection, the 120V receptacles stop putting out power. If you need both at once, use a NEMA L14-30P to 120V outlet adapter. It isn't a transformer — it plugs into the 30A twist-lock outlet and breaks the two 120V legs already inside it out to standard receptacles. Option B — Honda plus a Generator Line two-wire kit# You buy the Honda generator and the two-wire remote start kit directly from Generator Line. We don't sell these kits — the two wires from the kit land on your SapSpy relay module the same way the Westinghouse cable does. KitPriceFits EU3W2$369EU3000is / EU30is EU3WS2 (adds a wireless remote)$429EU3000is / EU30is EU65W2$269EU6500is / EU65is / EM series EU7W2$269EU7000 / EU70is The principle is identical: connect the two wires and the generator starts, separate them and it stops. The kit requires electric start and an automatic choke — on the EU3000is, the kit is what adds the auto-choke the generator doesn't have on its own. Why pick Honda: it's an inverter generator, so it ramps down when the load is light. That means noticeably less fuel burned and a much quieter machine. The tradeoff: a real price premium over the comparable Westinghouse, and no 240V. The video below is an EU3000i running a Generator Line two-wire kit at a remote site — relay one starts the generator, relay two runs the well pump that empties the tank. What you'll need# Common to both options: A compatible SapSpy relay module, mounted within 10 feet of the generator. A second relay if you also want to control a pump or other equipment. A motor starter if that pump draws more than 1 HP (see below). Then either: Option A: an ST Smart Switch–ready Westinghouse from the table above, plus our $40 control cable. Option B: a supported Honda, plus the matching Generator Line two-wire kit. Confirming the generator actually started# Plug your SapSpy device's power cable into an outlet on the generator. That one step buys you three things: Is Powered — a button under the device's settings that reports whether external power is present. If the device sees power, the generator is running. The device runs on its internal battery while the generator is off, and recharges whenever it runs. You can set a text alert for when that power disappears — which tells you the generator stopped, for whatever reason, without you having to go look. Running a pump off the generator# The second relay handles the load. How you wire it depends on the size of the motor: Under 1 HP: the relay can generally switch the pump directly. Over 1 HP: use a motor starter. We sell 3 HP and 5 HP motor starters. Set the starter to Auto and the relay controls it; Manual lets you run it by hand at the panel. Already running a VFD? The relay can start that instead. We don't sell VFDs, but they work fine in this role. If you have a vacuum sensor on the line, you can watch vacuum come up and confirm the pump is genuinely pulling — not just that the relay closed. Before you walk away from the generator# Leave the key switch or rocker in the RUN position. Remote start does nothing if the generator is switched off — this is the single most common reason a remote start "doesn't work." That comes with the one real catch in the whole system: leaving the switch in RUN slowly discharges the generator's own 12V starting battery, by design. Expect roughly five to seven days before it's too flat to crank. Three ways to handle it: Fit a small solar trickle charger — the cleanest fix for a generator that lives in the woods. Start the generator every few days, which tops the battery back up. Switch it off during long stretches when you know you won't need it, and switch it back to RUN on your next visit. Fuel, oil and the breaker all still need to be right before you leave. Remote start doesn't check any of them. ⚠️ This is a running generator. Ensure it is adequately ventilated and/or located outside for your safety. FAQsWill this work with a Generac or another brand?Not today. Anything outside the ST Smart Switch–ready Westinghouse units and the Hondas covered by Generator Line's two-wire kits needs additional engineering, so for now the answer is no. Stay tuned — we're evaluating a key-fob-style approach that would open this up to more generators.Do I need one relay or two?One relay per generator. It handles both start and stop, because the circuit stays closed the whole time the generator runs. You'd add a second relay only to control something the generator powers, like a pump.Can SapSpy start my generator automatically when the tank fills up?Not at this time. Generator control is a manual on/off toggle you tap in the app — there's no automatic trigger from tank level, temperature or an alert.How do I know the generator actually started?Plug your SapSpy device's power into an outlet on the generator, then use the Is Powered button under device settings. You can also set a text alert that fires when power drops, which tells you the generator has stopped.My Westinghouse is set to 240V and the 120V outlets are dead. Is something wrong?No — that's how the generator works. With the selector on 240V, the 120V receptacles don't output. To get both at the same time, use a NEMA L14-30P adapter on the 30A twist-lock outlet.Which Honda generators are supported?Whatever Generator Line supports with their two-wire kits — currently the EU3000is/EU30is, EU6500is/EU65is/EM series, and EU7000/EU70is. Check their two-wire remotes page for the current list before ordering.Why didn't my generator start when I switched the relay on?Nine times out of ten, the key switch or rocker wasn't left in the RUN position. If it was, check the generator's own 12V starting battery — leaving that switch in RUN drains it over about five to seven days.Westinghouse or Honda — which should I buy?Westinghouse costs less and gives you 240V, which matters if you're running a well pump or a 240V vacuum pump. Honda is an inverter: it ramps down under light load, so it's quieter and burns less fuel, at a price premium. Both start and stop from SapSpy exactly the same way.How far can the relay module be from the generator?Within 10 feet. The Westinghouse control cable is 3 metres, which sets the practical limit.

Knowledge Base

Most Asked Questions

Getting Started

Hardware Selection

Subscription & Service

Pricing & Sales

Getting Started & Setup

Using SapSpy

Power & Battery

Tank Level Sensor

Installation

App & Alerts

Range & Coverage

System add-ons

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting & Connectivity